When we think of Issey Miyake, we envision a creative genius who bridged art, fashion, and technology. His groundbreaking innovation, Pleats Please by Issey Miyake, emerged in 1993 as a revolution in textile design: micro-pleated polyester garments that combined practicality, beauty, and timeless appeal.
A Revolution in Textile Design
In the late 1980s, Issey Miyake embarked on an extensive research journey to create a pleating method that preserved softness and resilience. The patented process involves cutting and sewing the garment first, then sandwiching it between paper layers and applying heat to set permanent, razor-sharp pleats; a technique entirely unprecedented.
Pleats Please: Timeless, Practical, Iconic
Launched in 1993, Pleats Please transformed women's fashion by offering lightweight, a‑seasonal pieces: ranging from skirts to trousers and blouses, that can be machine washed, rolled, scrunched, and rebound to their original shape. The allure lies in the ingenuity: pleats aren't pre‑set before cutting, but formed after garment assembly, ensuring durability and elegance that lasts.
An Artful Fusion of Craft and Technology
Miyake never ceased experimenting. Even after stepping down from creative leadership of his main lines by 1999, he continued to explore textile innovation such as A‑POC ("A Piece of Cloth"): a tubular, computer‑knit garment that can be cut into multiple pieces, embodying his long-held vision of three‑dimensional clothing from a single thread, as seen in his wrinkled maxi skirt.
Philosophy and Legacy
Miyake’s design philosophy focused on real-life wearability, not ephemeral trends. He believed, “Dress things that function in real life”. Aside from pleats, Miyake also experimented with layering, like this organza blouse that features two layers of fabric in black and gold, complementing each other. Another example of his layering is this fluo shirt with the yellow and blue colors.
Global Appeal and Cultural Impact
Issey Miyake Pleats Please gained massive popularity and mainstream acclaim. Steve Jobs famously wore Miyake’s black turtlenecks, drawing attention from global icons like Kim Kardashian, Rihanna, Solange, and Grace Jones. These garments featured in major retrospectives and continue to resonate as stylish yet practical design staples.
Continuing Innovation: Homme Plissé & Beyond
True to form, Pleats Please offered comfort, functionality, inclusivity and a genderless aesthetic, long before it became a mainstream movement. The pleated innovation extended into menswear with the 2013 debut of Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, reflecting the brand’s commitment to liberating garments from conventional formality. Through performances and fashion showcases, this line pushed pleating into active experiences.
Why Pleats Please by Issey Miyake Still Defines Fashion Innovation
Issey Miyake revolutionized contemporary fashion through Pleats Please, demonstrating that garments can integrate technology, creativity, and accessibility. The result is a wardrobe that defies seasons, embraces all genders, and withstands the test of time; an enduring legacy of design innovation.
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