The Kelly bag: its value, authenticity and how to style it today

The Kelly bag by Hermès is a symbol of timeless elegance, exceptional craftsmanship, and
enduring value. From its origins in the 1930s to its association with Princess Grace Kelly, this iconic accessory has captivated fashion enthusiasts worldwide. In this comprehensive guide, we'll delve into the history of the Kelly bag, explore its investment potential, provide tips on authenticating genuine pieces, and offer styling advice for today's fashion landscape.

The Timeless Appeal of the Kelly Bag

The Kelly bag is more than just a bag: it’s a legend born almost by accident and elevated to icon status.
To find out how the Hermès Kelly was born, we have to go back in time to as far back as 1837, to when the maison was founded. It was conceived as a saddle bag for horsemen going on hunting trips. We have to wait until 1930 for the famous bag to become a women's accessory. Robert Dumas, Émile Hermès's son-in-law and his successor in the management of Hermès (1951-1978), created a new model by greatly reducing its size. He gave it a trapezoidal shape, with two triangular gussets, a cut-out flap, a handle, and two straps. However, it was not until the 1930s that the company introduced its first women's bag, the “Sac à dépêches,” meant to carry documents and newspapers and later renamed Kelly in honor of Grace Kelly, the iconic Princess of Monaco. In 1956, she used it to shield her baby bump from the paparazzi, and that candid photo quickly circled the globe. She received the bag in 1954 to use it in Hitchcock's film “To Catch a Thief” and instantly
fell in love with it. Although from then on everyone called the bag “the Kelly Bag,” it was not officially renamed so until 1977.
Behind its structured silhouettes lies hours of expert craftsmanship, a legacy of femininity,
elegance, and quiet power. It’s not just a handbag, it’s a silent statement made of leather, history and eternal allure.

Understanding the Value of a Kelly Bag

The Kelly bag continues to be a symbol of luxury and craftsmanship, with prices in 2025 reflecting  its esteemed status. Prices vary based on size, material, and rarity. For instance, the Mini Kelly II in Epsom leather starts at approximately $10,000 USD, while the Kelly 20 in Togo leather is around $12,000 USD. Exotic skins like alligator or crocodile can exceed $30,000 USD. These prices have seen an average increase of 4% from the previous year, a trend attributed to factors like craftsmanship and material costs. Limited editions and rare colors can command even higher prices, often surpassing $100,000 USD.
The worth of the Kelly bag though, goes far beyond its price tag: it lies in its rarity, craftsmanship and timeless prestige. Each bag is handcrafted by a single artisan, taking up to 25 hours to complete, using only the finest leathers and materials. With limited availability and long waiting list, the Kelly isn’t something you simply buy - it’s something you earn or patiently wait for. Its true worth is emotional: owning a Kelly means owning a piece of fashion history, a symbol of refined taste, status, and the art of slowing down in a fast-paced world. 

Authenticating a Genuine Kelly Bag

Given its high value, the Kelly bag is frequently counterfeited. To ensure authenticity, consider the following:

• Stamp and Logo: The logo is one of the first signs of authenticity. On a real Kelly bag, you’ll find an embossed stamp under the flap, aligned with the front seams. The three-line inscription - “Hermès Paris Made in France” - is delicately pressed into the leather, with each line gradually decreasing in size. Pay close attention to the typography: all capital letters, evenly spaced both vertically and horizontally. Any irregularity here should raise a red flag.
• Stitching: Machine stitching is one of the most obvious giveaways of a fake. The Kelly is hand-stitched using the saddle stitch method, with each bag assembled by a single artisan. Because of this, the stitching won’t be flawlessly symmetrical - but that’s exactly the point. Hermès stitches are usually slightly angled, and you may notice a few double stitches where extra reinforcement is needed, especially where the handles are attached.
• Lining and interior: Hermès has been crafting its own zippers for decades. Since the early 2000s, genuine Kelly bags feature zippers engraved with “HERMÈS,” with the bottom of the letters facing the end of the pull tab. A subtle letter, often an “H,” can also be found at the tip of the hardware. Inside, the zipper pull is made from a folded piece of the same leather as the bag - same color, same texture - and should open and close effortlessly. One last tip: authentic Hermès hardware always has a matte finish. If it’s glossy or reflective, be cautious.
• Hardware: Hermès uses only the finest materials for the Kelly’s hardware—typically gold or palladium plating. In rare cases, you might find brushed gold, rose gold, or ruthenium finishes. A genuine bag will have hardware that feels solid and never flimsy. Key indicators include:
  • Metal feet that are firmly secured and do not rotate
  • Locks and keys that feel weighty and substantial
  • Matching metal finishes across all parts of the bag

Avoid anything too shiny or lightweight. Cheap materials are a hallmark of imitation.

• Code: Each Kelly bag includes a small code that reveals when and by whom it was made.
  But here’s the catch: the format and location of the code have changed over time.
  • Before 2015, the stamp was located on the back of one leather strap.
  • From 2015 onwards, it moved inside the bag, near the upper left corner.

As for the format:

• • 1945–1970: A single letter with no surrounding shape
  • 1971–1996: Letter inside a circle
  • 1997–2014: Letter inside a square
  • 2015 to present: No shape again, but the system used is no longer public

The letter identifies the year of production, while the rest of the code points to the artisan responsible for the bag’s creation.

• Handles: creating the handle for a Kelly bag is no easy feat - it’s one of the most difficult parts of the entire construction process. Each one is made from six individual leather components and takes over three and a half hours to complete. Hermès artisans often create multiple prototypes before nailing the perfect one. If the handle feels too simple or looks hastily stitched, it’s probably not the real deal.
  • Keys and lock: every authentic Kelly includes a lock and two keys. The bottom of the lock is engraved with “HERMÈS,” and the number on the lock should match the number stamped on both keys. These keys are attached with a leather lace and housed in a clochette, which should be a single piece of leather folded and stitched - not two pieces sewn together. The keys should fit snugly, and the clochette should fully conceal them when not in use. Low-quality, non-functional locks are one of the easiest ways to spot a counterfeit.
  • Authenticity cards: Unlike most luxury houses, Hermès doesn’t issue authenticity cards or certificates when you purchase a Kelly. In fact, if your bag comes with an orange plastic card printed with the Hermès logo, it’s likely a fake. The brand relies on craftsmanship - not paperwork - to speak for its products.

Styling the Kelly Bag in Today's Fashion

Styling a Hermès Kelly bag is all about letting its timeless elegance shine. This iconic bag works well with many outfits and can easily elevate your look, whether you’re dressing casually or for a special event. For a relaxed, everyday style, pair the Kelly with high-waisted jeans, a white shirt or a simple blouse, and loafers or ballet flats. The structured shape of the bag adds a polished touch to even the simplest outfit. If you’re going to a formal event or dinner, match the Kelly with a tailored blazer, a little black dress, or a silk skirt and heels.
A great modern example of how to wear the Kelly in a fresh, effortless way is Kendall Jenner. She has been spotted carrying a mini Kelly bag with casual outfits like oversized blazers, wide-leg trousers, and crop tops. Her looks often blend minimalism with quiet luxury, letting the Kelly add a refined accent, proving its adaptability across generations and personal styles. The Kelly comes in different sizes and colors, so you can choose the one that fits your style best. Neutral colors like black, tan, or gold are versatile and work well for both day and night. If you want to add personality to your look, pick a bold color like red, blue, or green. You can carry the Kelly by the top handle for a classic look, or use the shoulder strap for a more modern and comfortable feel. Adding a scarf to the handle is also a fun way to personalize it. In general, keep your outfit simple and clean to let the beauty and craftsmanship of the Kelly stand out. 

The Enduring Legacy of the Kelly Bag

The Kelly bag remains a testament to Hermès' commitment to craftsmanship and luxury. Its rich history, coupled with its modern-day relevance, ensures its place as a coveted accessory for generations to come. Whether carried by royalty or fashion enthusiasts, the Kelly bag continues to captivate with its blend of tradition and contemporary allure.